A Taste of Heaven

By Andrea Wright, Foodanista! –

Robert and Melissa Willingham, the owners of Chiesa, have been in the restaurant business for 25 years.

After selling a Mexican restaurant in Baltimore that they owned for 12 years, they moved to Asheville, where they have opened an Italian restaurant to honor Melissa’s grandparents, Antonina and Giuseppe.

They searched almost a year for restaurant space. One day while in the Montford district, Melissa noticed a former church for sale at the corner of Montford Avenue and Chestnut Street. Robert was doubtful, saying, “They will never allow a restaurant in there.” Fortunately, the broker they were working with was also representing the owner of the building, and it was soon theirs.

Built in 1906, the structure had housed several grocery stores and, more recently, the Full Gospel Assembly Church and the Pentecostal Tabernacle Church.

A friend, Louis Rothlein, chose the name: “Chiesa” means “church” in Italian. Along with the name, the Willinghams retained pews for seating as well as the poor-box. And, like their predecessors, Robert and Melissa wanted to support the community, so they use the poor-box to collect donations, matching whatever their patrons drop in. Recipients have included Planned Parenthood, WNC AIDS Project, Meals on Wheels, Homeward Bound, and, last month, Girls on the Run. Local artists also have work on display and for sale.

In an original and fun idea (for a restaurant!), the Willinghams also host a monthly potluck dinner for those on their email list. Employees such as Anne Clark rave about working at Chiesa: “We are family, and we are all huggers.”

The menu, derived from Melissa’s grandmother’s recipes, changes almost daily and, of course, includes fresh-made pasta. I don’t normally like vegetable lasagna, but I absolutely loved Chef Frank Hayden’s spinach-and-roasted-red-pepper lasagna with béchamel sauce, served with salad, Italian bread, and (of course!) Italian wine.

Robert and Melissa Willingham want to offer an intimate experience at Chiesa, just as if you are eating good, simple traditional fare in their home. You won’t be disappointed.

Chiesa is located at 152 Montford Avenue in Asheville. Hours are Tuesday – Sunday 5-9 p.m. Closed Monday. For more information, please call (828) 552-3110 and visit www.chiesaavl.com.